Blessing and a Prayer

Copper dust settles, revealing a makeshift boat repair yard on the seashore.  Sounds of sanders and saws drown out voices.  Women, children and old folks come down the dirt road. Many take a slow pace; some, on motorbikes, kick up clouds as they arrive. Everyone carries something, food, and drinks, pots filled with rice, chicken, fish, sweets, glasses, plates, silverware, water, and an empty aluminum bowl.  The air is festive.

It’s almost 5 PM and one newly repaired, splendidly painted vessel sits on its keel in the low tide sandy mud.  Soon little pairs of slip on/off shoes lie in the mud as the boat fills up.  Boys, girls, and women from stem to stern sit chattering. On the floor a delightful array of food and drinks adorn and await.

These are a deeply spiritual people and its time to give thanks, bless the goddess of the boat and call in protection and abundance.  Now many men, women and guests stand all around the boat.

Soon an elder, tall with short grey hair and dark skin climbs aboard. In his faded blue T shirt and plain black pants, he appears quite ordinary. But everyone is respectfully and quite unusually, quiet.  He sits cross-legged, silent for a while.  I imagine he’s invoking ancient prayers passed from generation to generation. A tall slender man, Mr. Dunghen.. "Mr. D" the boats owner, hands him a coconut husk and lights it on fire.  Smoke billows as the elder passes the smoking husk over all the food and drink offerings in a smudging ceremony.  He hands the husk to Mr. D who slowly walks around the boat, letting the smoke anoint every part.  The elder’s prayers and thanksgivings continue quietly as he blesses each offering.

At the same time, three young men, stand at the Long Neck.  Carefully, they fold brightly colored cloths into a long neat ribbon and carefully tie each around it.  Mr. D stops, inspects their work and unties one.  He reties it so the bow faces the opposite direction each time one is added.  At the top, they insert a bouquet of bright beautiful flowers.

All the while everyone’s respectful, yet it’s not oppressive.  People smile.  It seems more about welcoming, honoring and thanksgiving; than fearful protection.

The elder lights a single candle.  Several people hold up a large, long piece of cloth to prevent the wind from putting it out.  Carefully he picks up a bit of rice, holds it a while in silence, brings his hands together and raises them to his forehead and back down again.  Then places a bit of rice in each of four leaves. This, he repeats with the many offerings.  When he’s finished, he carefully hands the leaves which resemble miniature boats to Mr. D.  He places one on the bow, one astern, and one on each side.

The aluminum bowl, now filled with sea water, receives a blessing and a prayer.  Again Mr. Dunghen rounds his boat, splashing the holy water generously, careful, I notice, to coat the whole Long Neck at the bow.

Finally, he climbs aboard and sits quiet and still.  Both men pray a while.  No one appears in a hurry.

The most touching moment occurs as Mr. D bows slightly as the elder, his own father and village shaman, places his right hand gently upon his son’s head and prays for him.  It’s a sacred moment.  Then his father picks up a piece of paper money, hands it to his son, who holds it a moment, then ceremonially gives it back to his father, who slips it into his pocket.  The son then takes a baht coin, climbs out and slides it under the ribbon on the Long Neck, clearly a sign of and prayer for abundance.

The ceremony complete, the elder/father/shaman steps out and simply walks away.  Then the feast; everyone eats and drinks, again chattering and smiling a mile a minute.  Mr. Dunghen is mindful to bring food and drinks to all his guests. His open heart makes a place for everyone. I feel honored to be included.

Later, someone said up until a century ago, these Sea Gypsies actually lived on their boats in the sea.  What a fitting tribute to their ancient home and provider.